What is True Bias in the Apparel Industry??

The phrase "true bias" may seem technical, but it's a cornerstone of textile design and plays a significant role in the apparel industry. True bias refers to cutting patterns along a 45° angle from the selvage. This technique is essential for creating garments where every piece mirrors the others, leading to a cohesive look and improved functionality. A solid grasp of true bias can enhance how garments fit and flow.

True Bias

The Importance of True Bias

Cutting fabric on the bias allows it to beautifully drape over the body's curves. When fabric is folded along the true bias, the result is enhanced elasticity and movement. For example, think of a sleek silk organza sheath dress. If it were cut off the bias, its elegance would be compromised. The resulting asymmetry can make even the highest-quality fabric look awkward, resulting in a less balanced garment.

Precision in cutting is vital for achieving a tailored appearance, especially for garments designed to flow or fit closely. By cutting on true bias, patternmakers utilize the fabric's natural grain, which leads to a more harmonious and elegant design. According to industry surveys, garments made with true bias cuts have reported an increase in satisfaction and better comfort levels for wearers by about 30%.

Applications in Apparel Design

In men’s tailoring, the under collar of a jacket frequently employs this bias technique. Cutting the fabric on the bias allows the collar to roll smoothly and exhibit a slight bounce, enhancing visual interest while maintaining structural integrity. This choice can elevate an entire outfit's appearance, creating a refined look that stands out.

Similarly, the back yokes of shirts, especially those crafted from plaid or patterned fabrics, greatly benefit from being cut on the true bias. This technique allows the plaid to align perfectly, creating continuity throughout the garment and avoiding mismatched seams. According to fashion houses, this attention to detail not only reflects craftsmanship but also strengthens a designer’s reputation for quality.

Challenges of Working with True Bias

Although cutting on the bias offers benefits, it also comes with its challenges. Fabric cut on true bias can be more difficult to sew compared to fabric cut on the straight grain. The inherent stretch can complicate edge alignment, and without proper handling, mistakes can distort shapes. It takes a skilled artisan to manipulate and work with true bias effectively, and their experience is essential to producing a high-quality garment.

Moreover, not all fabrics respond the same way to bias cutting. Light and flowing materials tend to drape well on the bias, while stiffer fabrics may not yield the same beautiful results. For instance, cottons and linens may struggle to display the soft curves that bias cuts can create, making it essential for designers to choose fabrics carefully.

Final Thoughts

Understanding true bias is crucial for anyone involved in the apparel industry, from novice designers to experienced tailors. Cutting patterns along a 45° angle from the selvage not only enhances the look and feel of garments, but it also plays a key role in ensuring quality and elegance. While the technique presents distinct challenges, the benefits far outweigh the difficulties. By embracing true bias, designers can create stunning garments that flatter the body and embody timeless style. Reyburn

Apparel Fit Engineer Reyburn Brown

The Reyburn School of Apparel Pattern Making